In the final days of living in Portland, Oregon, I dug through old work. I found this essay on an external hard drive that I tend to dump everything on. This essay The Walk Home was written some time in late 1996. It was an assignment in my Advanced Essay Writing Workshop at Metro State. I had lived in Ansbach, Germany from late 1990 until late 1992 with a layover in the Middle East in 1991. Incidentally, I had also gone back for a visit in August of 1996. During my visit I felt every bit as alien as I had as a young soldier some 4 or 5 years prior. What I find so striking about the essay now is the tone and how it really is the harbinger for my graduate school thesis. From Ansbach to Color became my creative thesis which I began in January of 2007, some eleven years later. I hope you enjoy the essay.
The Walk Home
The way home was never hard to find,
and I never forgot it. No matter how drunk I was or how I tried, I
could never forget the way home. Funny, I could conveniently forget
things to avoid work or a girlfriend, but not home or the way there.
I could honestly forget other things too, my name, the name of the
bar, or the girl, but I lived on Dombach Strasse in the young soldier
housing at Barton Barracks on the topmost hill north of Ansbach.
One night I decided to leave the bar at
a decent hour. Tired, a bit pissed off, drunk, I realized none of
the girls would stoop to talk to me, much less have sex with me, so I
decided to cut my loses and go home. I imagined the damply cool
night air as an air pocket in a damp sponge. It smelled like plants
and mold, and it rained almost everyday. Since I had grown up in a
desert most of my life, be it California or Colorado, living in a
damp climate like Germany was a real oddity. My German friends
always thought me as the oddity, the way I acted in the foul, rainy
weather.
That night was clear, it had been the
first clear night in a couple of months. Clear meant that no rain
fell, but the sky itself was still a dense haze. Only the stronger
stars could shine through it, and here and there one did. Around
each one of those strong stars a blue and purple halo appeared giving
each a royal look. When the moon rose high enough, close to the
zenith, its light not only produced a halo but a rainbow. Inside the
lunar rainbow all the colors hatched in slightly darker hues than a
day time rainbow. If more light existed that night the air all
around would have been rainbows due to all the moisture in the air.
In some of the high street lamps, I could see the marbling and
swirling columns and mountains of mist. It looked a bit like the
smoke inside the bar but considerably cleaner and healthier. The air
moved only slightly, probably due to the water in it. I could see
the individual balls of mist as they grew from tiny ones to the
larger ones that got too heavy to cheat gravity any longer and fell
to the Earth. When they fell, they made little rippling circles on
the puddles in the streets. I was elated in this night time
environment, the contrast it had over the desert I grew up in. A
desert where the rain comes violently for a few minutes and all the
moisture gets quickly absorbed into the thirsty Earth, and what the
Earth can't drink the sky reclaims and the storm moves on. Yes, the
Ansbach night air gave me life.
Once I was outside, I couldn't have
been happier. The bar called City Limits, one drinking establishment
in a large building in downtown Ansbach, was built before
ventilation. The place got hot, sweaty, smelly and smokey. When I
first learned about irony it was at City Limits: if a person
is in a house and it is on fire, filled with smoke, what is the first
thing they do? They get out! Yet people can linger on for hours,
and hours in a smokey bar. What is the difference really? I suppose
one can't file an insurance claim for smoke inhalation from sitting
in a bar.
Fire or no fire, City Limits bulged
with smoke, and it felt pretty good to walk out into the Ansbach
night air, even though it did smell a bit like manure from the
surrounding fields.
Little puddles stood quietly in the
cobble stone streets. I walked across them heading toward the clock
tower on the other side of town. I passed Round the Clock, a German
"rocker" bar, impulsively I wanted to go in. First
impulses pass quickly with fear of death.
Miriam and I had had a perfect
relationship. It was quick, sensual and vicious. We met, got drunk,
had sex, decided to go Paris where we talked, got drunk, had sex, and
we returned home. The good times lasted three days, maybe four; that
was the quick and sensual part. The vicious part lasted for several
weeks afterward. She told me I was a cold, heartless person,
perhaps, but I blamed it all on a difference in values. Other than
beer and sex we had nothing in common. Paris was her favorite city,
and if I could image hell, it would be just like Paris only the buses
would be on time.
She tended bar at Round the Clock.
Miriam, more attractive than any other woman in Ansbach, had all the
men in love with her. Without question, if I even walked into Round
the Clock, I would become grout between the tiles. I decided to
conserve on my chip free teeth, so I walked on, toward home.
I passed Cafe Rialto, the hippest place
to hang out, and as I passed happiness filled me at the thought of
how people accepted me there. I wanted to go in, but the place
always closed early. I craved an ice cream or a soda, a positive
alternative to Cappuccino. I never had the heart to tell everyone I
didn't like Cappuccino, or any other coffee for that matter. The
atmosphere was good, but like everywhere else too smokey. In fact
Martina, the first German friend I had, gave me a lecture there
because of my abnormality of non-smoking. As convincing as she
wanted to be, soliciting the whole tobacco industry, I still didn't
pick cigarettes up as a habit. I didn't pick Cappuccino as a habit
either.
Generally, I took a quick drink at Cafe
Rialto twice a week, Tuesdays before going to Das Boat, a club in
Nürnberg, and Fridays before going to Neurose in Schwach, the other
two hip places to hang out. I would sit next to Martina at Cafe
Rialto, or someone else who seemed interesting, but in such a smokey
place healthy lungs wanted to sit next to someone who didn't smoke.
Naffia didn't smoke. I missed her
greatly after she went back to Bosnia. She didn't know any English
and her German was as bad as mine. We smiled constantly at one
another, and we made fun of everyone else. Without certainty I
suspected she didn't like coffee either.
Naffia lived on the other side of the
clock tower in a small apartment above McDonalds. She probably lived
in the worst place in all of Ansbach. Her place smelled forever like
cooking oil and underarms, and the one window she had overlooked the
taxi pickup point. I ventured into her place under an invitation
after a long night of dancing. I spent the night with her once, her
place was too small for the two of us. I often wondered as I walked
past her old place what became of her, who moved into that nasty
place and if we spoke the same language if we could have had a
different relationship.
Across Maximilion Platz kitty corner
from the clock tower and adjacent to McDonalds stood Cafe Central.
The two things I constantly reminded myself of Cafe Central: the ten
year old kid who drank me under the table when I first got to
Ansbach, and the girl who took me to bed first. I would see the kid
from time to time, and we always talked to one another, but I never
talked to the girl when I saw her. I did see her, she lived in a
house on my route home just after the train tracks where Maximilion
Platz connected to the path which connected to the cemetery on
Rathaus Strasse. She giggled when she met me, claimed to know
English and introduced herself as Sofia. She not only gave me my
first experience with sex in Germany, but my first experience with
disease as well. Every day, I walked by her house, sometimes I would
see her, and we ignored each other. Sometimes, I would see her older
sister and mother (The two were never apart), and they would just
laugh. They laughed from the time they saw me until I
walked out of sight. They were always
laughing at me, it bothered me, but I had nothing to say in rebut. I
think they must have known what went on between Sofia and me.
The cemetery lay between Sofia's house
and my Barracks. A deep colored brick wall separated the cemetery
from the street. When I first got to Ansbach I would walk on the
wall. The wall-walking ended late one night when I saw ghosts moving
around in there. There seemed to be several of them, and they stood
in a little group as if they were mourning over something, or
pontificating the passing of someone. At that point I leaped from
the wall and ran all the way home too afraid to look back at all the
specters following me. In retrospect, if I hadn't drank so much
tequila and eaten too many worms there probably wouldn't have been
ghosts lurking about in the cemetery.
At the end of the cemetery wall,
Rathaus Strasse ended. Rathaus in German means courthouse, that word
became my second lesson in irony, because in English it sounds like
"Rat House". I crossed the street and walked up the hill on
a foot path. The ability to walk out of a city infatuated me about
Europe. Granted Ansbach, a smaller city than Nürnberg or München,
took less time to walk out of, but countryside surrounded them all.
This particular foot path had trees on each side, and beyond those
trees some landmarks of Ansbach. The Tücher brewery on one side
overlooked the town she supplied beer with and fields that supplied
the brewery with grain on the other.
After a dark walk on the foot path
ending by the television tower, the final stretch home last no more
than two minutes. I always enjoyed the darkness on the foot path,
and then coming out of the trees on the hill to see the lights of
Ansbach below. I typically stopped and looked at the view, mostly
to catch my breath or vomit. Thinking about the whole situation now,
living in Ansbach and the walk home, it was that moment at the top of
the hill, looking down on the city that made it all worthwhile. At
least my memory amplifies those moments. It amplifies the walk home
making it worthwhile, no matter how tired, or how drunk, or
forgetful. It even made the walk up memory lane worthwhile, it made
the moments with Miriam, Martina, Naffia and Sofia worthwhile. The
loneliness didn't seem so horrible there, probably because no one
stood there with me, ridiculing my expressions or lack of
understanding. It made all of life worthwhile, two minutes before
going home, standing at the top of Ansbach, alone.